Into the Blue: Surviving and Thriving on the Havasu Falls Trek
Havasu Falls is a desert paradise… but it makes you earn it. Hidden deep in the heart of the Havasupai Reservation, its electric turquoise waters seem to belong to another planet. But reaching this oasis? That’s where the real story begins. From early-morning drives and dehydrated meals to sketchy cliff climbs and starlit hikes, this was one of the most grueling, yet rewarding, adventures of my life.
Gearing Up in Phoenix
The journey began in Phoenix, where the vibe was more city-slicker than trail-blazer. But we knew what was coming. First stop: REI, where we loaded up on backpacking essentials like dehydrated meals, fuel, electrolyte tablets and a borderline embarrassing number of blister pads (which we would use all of). Then it was off to stock up on snacks for the hike (pro tip: bring salty, protein-rich options that won’t melt in the heat).
The Drive North and a Night Below the Surface
A few hours later, we pulled into the Grand Canyon Caverns Inn. It’s a quirky, roadside spot perfect for a final nights bed rest before beginning our trek. It also happens to be where you pick up the Havasupai permits, so if you can snag a booking here, I highly recommend it!
After a bite to eat at the restaurant nearby, we double-checked our packs, and did our best to get some rest before an early wake-up call.
The Trek Begins
At 2AM sharp, we got our gear together, dropped off the hotel keys and began our hour long drive to the trailhead. The drive in was filled with excitement and anticipation (as much excitement as someone can have at 2AM). But with our headlamps on and energy drinks coursing through our veins, we began the 13 mile hike to the campground with one goal in mind… Make it as far into the canyon as humanly possible before the sun rose.
And we did... until it didn’t matter. Because once that sun crested the canyon walls, we were BAKING. The temperature jumped like it had something to prove, and every step felt twice as hard. The trail twisted deeper into the canyon, and just when we thought we were there… we weren’t.
We reached the Supai village tired, sweaty and ready to collapse... only to realize we had three more miles to go.
Camp, Chill, and Canyon Vibes
By the time we hit the campsite, we were toast. Setting up camp felt like an Olympic event, but the icy blue river was waiting, and nothing had ever felt better than that first plunge into Havasu Creek. We rinsed off the trail dust, napped in the shade and let the sounds of the canyon wash over us.
As night fell, we stayed up under a blanket of stars, marveling at the silence, the colors, and the sheer beauty of being unplugged in a place that felt untouched by time.
The Mooney Moan and the Beaver Falls Dream
The next morning, we fueled up with a massive breakfast and set off toward Beaver Falls, passing Mooney Falls along the way. But first—that descent.
Mooney is not for the faint of heart. You’re not hiking down; you’re climbing, gripping wet chains embedded in a cliff face, with mist spraying in your face and the sound of the falls roaring below. It’s thrilling, terrifying, and totally unforgettable.
The trail to Beaver Falls is stunning! Lush greenery, multiple river crossings, and even a few wild rams grazing in the tall canyon grass. Bring solid water shoes, snacks and way more water than you think you'll need. By the time we reached the final stretch, the exposed rock had turned into a frying pan. So we dipped in every chance we got to stay cool.
When we finally arrived, Beaver Falls took our breath away. Cascading teal pools, cliffs dotted with greenery, and the kind of water that feels like a full-body reset. We spent hours here, soaking it all in - both literally and figuratively.
The hike back out wasn’t nearly as hard with the sun sitting behind the canyon walls. However, that climb up Mooney Falls was much more intimidating than the hike down. I don’t know if it was because we were the only folks out there or if it was the exhaustion, but it was daunting and not something I’m looking to do again unless I’m airlifted in and out. It’s well worth it! But buyer beware.
The Days that Followed
The next day was spent back at camp, resting, exploring and recovering. We walked up to Havasu Falls itself to soak in the beauty that we missed under the exhaustion of the hike in and made a beeline for the hut serving Indian Tacos. Hot tip: get there early. They close when they sell out, and they only take cash. The food is phenomenal, especially when you’ve earned every calorie on foot and have probably been eating dehydrated meals for the last few days.
The Night Hike Out
To avoid the heat on the way out, we started our hike at 10PM, guided only by stars and headlamps. The canyon looked completely different at night. It was MUCH cooler, quieter and almost mystical. We moved faster without the sun punishing us, shaving off almost two hours compared to the way in. It wasn’t an easy trek out, but it was filled with more laughter and storytelling than our hike in.
That is, until the final climb out of the canyon… a hellish series of switchbacks that felt like a boss battle at the end of a very long video game. Our legs were jelly, our spirits low... but the top was in sight. And when we finally made it, there might’ve been tears. No judgment. It’s a hard climb after 10+ miles overnight and 50 pounds on your back.
Rt 66, Grand Canyon Views, and Sedona Serenity
With our packs off and the car in sight, we drove down Route 66, stopping in tiny towns for a well-earned celebratory breakfast. Then, still buzzing from the adventure, we made a quick pit stop at Grand Canyon National Park for one last canyon view. No hiking this time! Just a stroll along the South Rim wall, in awe that we just spent a few days at the bottom of this beautiful beast.
But our journey wasn’t done yet. We ended the trip in Sedona, where we traded waterfalls for red rocks and hiking boots for recovery. The perfect ending to an unforgettable, ass-kicking journey through one of the most beautiful places on Earth.
